Wear a piece of history with these pieces of affordable Victorian jewellery
16 April 2020 Among the treasures both ancient and modern available at Wilkinson’s sale of Objet d’Art and Bijouterie is an assortment of Victorian jewellery.Victorian jewellery was often deeply personal and could feature and image of a loved one or even a lock of their hair. Mourning jewellery, created in remembrance of a deceased family member, friend or public figure was also popular, particularly using Whitby jet or black enamel (and, again, hair). Thanks to the industrial age, there was also a rise in mass produced, more accessibly priced pieces across England.
Take a look at our selection of four pieces of jewellery going under the hammer on April 19.
Pinchbeck and hair brooch
Though the use of hair in making jewellery has a long history, it rose in popularity during the 19th century thanks to the vogue for mourning jewellery. Thanks to special chemical properties, human hair decays very slowly meaning that these trinkets can be very lasting. Pictured above, this delicate piece, estimated at £100-200, is made with blond and brunette hair, twisted together with gold wire. The metal is pinchbeck, a form of brass, which is a lower-cost alternative to gold.
Ruby brooch
A common motif for Victorian jewellery was a flower adorned with gold and gemstones, and this brooch, catalogued of that era, very much fits the style. It is set with a ruby and surrounded by oval amethysts and diamonds. Fitted with a safety pin it has an estimate of £200-400.
Shell cameo
Queen Victoria popularised the fashion for cameos carved in seashells, which are lightweight and easy to adapt to larger pieces. The majority of these pieces are ornate female profiles, but cameos can also feature biblical scenes, gods, goddesses, Roman soldiers and so on. This example, offered with an estimate of £60-120, shows a finely carved shepherdess in a landscape.
Mizpah memorial ring
Hallmarked for 1872, this 15ct gold and enamel memorial ring is engraved Mizpah. The biblical word connotes an emotional connection between two people. When it is mentioned in the book of Genesis it is followed with the phrase: “The Lord watch between me and thee, when we are absent one from another.” Rings with the word became popular in the 1850s and 60s and many of these pieces remain both collectable and affordable. This example has an estimate of £80-160.